My Travel Journal

     ugandI was beyond excited to be going to Uganda.  I had been to Africa several times, but this was my first visit to East Africa. Even though Uganda is a relatively small landlocked country (bordered by Kenya, Sudan, Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Tanzania), there is so much to explore and experience. During my first visit, I got a taste of the many things the country had to offer. I had heard so many good things about Uganda and I was anticipating a real treat. I will tell you that the country lived up to, and even way past my expectations.
 
     A new wave of tourism is continuously rising in Uganda, and I would be among the first to witness it. Known as the Pearl of Africa, the country offers an adventure in all types of tourism, and it has some of the most magnificent sites and natural resources that you ever could imagine. Uganda is also home to one of the tallest mountain range in Africa, Mount Rwenzori, the continent largest lake, Lake Victoria and the world's longest river, the River Nile. I would get to explore all of these natural wonders.   
eqakit     Uganda is also one of the few countries in the world through which the equator crosses. The imaginary line that divides the earth into two halves, the equator runs through Uganda at a point situated south of Kampala along the Kampala – Masaka road where two cement circles marking the equator line are located.  
       Uganda is also a very safe country to visit and easy to explore. Home to 10 national parks and three UNESCO World Heritage sites, it is no wonder that travelers are visiting the country to explore some of its grandeur.  I was going to Uganda for the 39th Annual African Travel Association (ATA) Congress. 
      Upon arrival, I found that the people were so friendly, and quick to welcome and embrace visitors from all over the world. The locals made me feel so comfortable and right at home. We checked into the beautiful  Speke Resort Munyonyo whcih was the host hotel for the ATA conference.  This one-of-a-kind upscale resort  offers the ultimate in luxury accommodation and leisure facilities. It is an excellent choice for any type conference, business meetings or specail event.  Situated in Munyonyo on the shores of Lake Victoria, we had the option of enjoying the  Olympic size swimming pool, equestrian centre, 5 star restaurants, gymnasium and sports facilities. I really loved this hotel and service was great.   
moun      We enjoyed a three day tour of Uganda before the ATA conference began. One of the first things we did was to visit Queen Elizabeth National Park as a part of a safari tour.  Located in western Uganda, the park is about about 234 miles from Kampala, Uganda's capital and largest city. Since we were at the Speke Resort in Kampala, we had to get up early the next morning to make the journey to Queen Elizabeth National Park.  The trip proved to be well worth the long drive.  The 764 square mile park  gave us the unique opportunity to view the scenes that it is most famous for, including its mountains, volcanic cones, deep craters, and mineral  crater lakes such as the Katwe Craters, from which salt is extracted. It was quite an experience observing the beauty of the lake that seemed to turn from a relaxing blue to a serene green. The park consists of a great savannah grassland of roaming animals and scattered euphorbia trees growing everywhere.
      I was truly blown away by the beauty of the park's countryside, the mountains, greenery and serene lakes.We took in spectacular, breathtaking sceneries that almost seem to put you in a trance. Very exciting on the tor throughout Queen Elizabeth Park was the stunning view of Mount Rwenzori. The mountains range, located on the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the ugCongo supports glaciers and are the source of the Nile River. The highest Rwenzori peaks are permanently snow-capped and it is a mystical experience to see the mountain with a snow white top when it is hot  on the ground.  These mountains are good for hiking activities. We got to drive around them and get out for a short hike and look out at the magnificent views of the jagged range of mountains that included the famous Mitumbe Hill where you can look out to the Congo. It seemed surreal viewing through the mountains to get a glimpse of the Congo!vic
     Queen Elizabeth National Park is where you get to see what is known as the "Big Five" in Uganda. The big five are among the most dangerous, yet most popular species that the big game hunters used to hunt. Now tourist come to observe the Big Five in their natural habitat. In Queen Elizabeth National Park we got to see all five of the Big game animals on almost the same day. We saw the elephant, lion, buffalo, and the hippo. It was kinda of scary seeing lions prowling the open plains. But we did not dare get out of our jeep. We did not see the leopard. The leopard is one of the hardest to spot so the guide told us. We would get to see the leopard at the Ugandan Zoo on the last day before we left.  Around the lake is where we saw the buffalo roaming and the hippopotamuses swimming and dipping. It is reported to have about 100 mammal species. So here you can see any animal imaginable. In addition to the Big Five, it was a real adventure to see the antelopes, giraffs, different types of monkeys and warthogs.
     girafAfter the game watching and scenic two-hour drive along the Kasenyi plain, we did a boat cruise where we sailed along the Kazanga Channel. This was very relaxing and we got to view hippos and sea animals  basking in the water.  We stopped along the way and had lunch in the town of Mbarara, at the Agrip Hotel. I was glad to take breaks and rest time along the drives. At the end of the day, we did not dare take the long drive back to Kampala. We stayed in a Mweya Safari Lodge where we had checked into when we got to the western part of Uganda. 
 
After  the ATA conference, we got to visit another great park, Murchinson Falls National Park. This is Uganda's largest park that is known for it's beautiful scenes and concentration of game also, as well as birds. Here is where you will find the magnificent Murchinson Falls, where the park derived its name. We spent the night at the Samiya Safari Lodge. Arising early in the morning, we ventured to view the falls by way of the Nile River that runs through the park. Our  ferry boat tour down the Nile allowed us a spectacular view approaching the roaring Murchinson Falls. The lush greenery around the falls was a site to behold. The sun shining on the falls is a scene that I will never forget. Needless to say, there were many photo opportunities. Along the Nile we observes very large size hippos and exotic fish. And yes, we saw a very large scary looking crocodile on the banks opening and closing it's mouth! Upon return that evening, we were entertained by the Mubako Community Group Artist with homemade musical instruments who perform daily at the ferry embarkment.  

ugaThe parks of Uganda are real tourism draws because they are natural wonders to behold in and of themselves.  Even if there was nothing else to do in the country, it would be worth a visit to go to one of the ten national parks located there. Uganda's vast bird population of more than 1,000 species makes the parks a birdwatcher's paradise. We did a little bird watching at Queen Elizabeth National Park where it is said to have over 500 different species of bird flying around. In addition to Queen Elizabeth National Park and Murchinson Falls National Park, Uganda is home to many other great parks including Kibale Natioanal Park, known for it 13 species of primates; Lake Mburo National Park, where you will find Lake Mburo and four other smaller lakes and Bwindi National Park that is well-known for its Mountain gorilla tracking.  
 
From the very beginning of my visit to Uganda, I was captured by its beauty. From the snow-capped peaks of Rwenzori Mountains, to the excellent safaris, fantastic birding opportunities and beautiful scenic national parks, the country had already lived up to its reputation before I continued my tour. I had not even done the capital upbeat city of Kampala yet and I was in love with Uganda!
 
Also Read:
Visit Uganda (Part 2): Explore Jinja- the Source of the Nile River 

 

bl ams“Don't go to the Bjilmer,” was the general consensus among folks I asked about this predominantly Black neighborhood in Amsterdam.

"Make sure you hold your purse” cautioned my taxi driver on our way from the airport to my hotel.  While I appreciated her advice, I grew up in Kingston and lived in Brooklyn for sixteen years, so visiting Amsterdam’s proverbial ghetto wasn’t a stretch for me. I took the #54 train from Centraal Station in the heart of the historic district.

In twenty-five minutes I was in Bjilmer, home to 100,000 people of 150 different nationalities, mostly from Africa, the Dutch Caribbean and Suriname. I exited at Bjilmer Arena A and walked into the sunshine. The day was unseasonably warm and I took off my jacket and scarf.  I had no plan, no direction. I just walked.

As I walked past the Heineken Arena I saw a Green Day poster and thought, “If Green Day is going to play here then how bad can this place be?” I considered all the warnings I had received and even though they were well intentioned, I was annoyed that I was getting so much warnings because I was going to a Black neighborhood.

In the 1960’s the city of Amsterdam had a housing stagnation problem.  They had more people than available shelter.  Bjilmer was built to abate this crisis. It was touted as the most modern place to live in all of Amsterdam with innovative housing implementations. The high rise apartment structures were a modern approach to living for the Dutch. The design was also innovative, from the air Bjilmer looks like a series of connected honeycomb structures with long hallways and galleries on the interior.  It later became problematic to manage Bjilmer because management offices were located too far out of town. Livability issues like trash collection, resident deviant behavior and police patrols ran amuck.  Decades later 1970’s, Dutch colonies like Suriname and the Netherlands Antilles gained their independence. People started flocking to Amsterdam and then funneled into Bjilmer’s affordable housing.  The low social status coupled with low-income of many tenants, subsequently led to Bjilmer’s  notoriety of high crime rates and drug trafficking.  I noticed the Bjilmer development was far removed from rest of Amsterdam, out there in the Dutch wasteland.

amsterI walked into the development past a café where locals were out enjoying the sunny weather while sipping beverages.  There was a moderate police presence in the area.  Underneath the three-story brick apartment locals first built shops into the spaces to suit their needs like harberdasheries and small grocery stores.  Today, these are replaced by flower shops, make-up sores, H&M, bakeries and flower shops.   It was obvious to me that Bjilmer was shedding its negative stigma for one of gentrification and urban development.  The Bjilmer even has a Starbuck’s, the quintessential modern day symbol of gentrification.bl am

As I walked further in the Bjilmer I bumped into a street market and was immediately transported to Flatbush, Brooklyn and downtown Kingston simultaneously. Fruit and vegetable stands were brimming with vibrant foods from immigrant’s homelands. Yellow and green plantains, coconuts, scotch bonnet peppers, avocadoes, squash, field greens like callaloo and kale made a bright spot in Bjilmer.  The sounds of reggae music from Luke Dube, Peter Tosh and even bachata and salsa floated throughout the market.

jilmer’s does have an underbelly and it showed.  I was walking alone and taking pictures and I was being followed at a distance. There was no way the man following me was that interested in perfume, flowers and make-up as much as I was.  I made sure I stayed in wide open spaces in the sunlight. Bjilmer is definitely a diamond in the rough.  On certain corners I noticed young boys as “look outs” and saw money exchanged hands quickly quite a few times.

Bjilmer has definitely cleaned up since the 1970’s, but there are still telltale signs of the ‘hood.  A shabby Chinese food store, a beauty supply store, a weave store, a stall selling international phone cards and satellite dishes hanging off the sides of porches (Bjilmer is only zoned for cable TV) and worn out porch furniture with peeling plastic littered on many balconies throughout the complex.

I safely made it back to my hotel in central Amsterdam, happy that I ignored the warnings.  Have you ignored travel advice and just gone with your gut?  Tell me about it in the comments.

Photos: Diana O'Gilvie

 

 

diane

Diana O’Gilvie is filmmaker, photographer and writer who travels because the world is just too big to not go exploring. She makes valiant attempts to slow down and forgives herself for her short comings. Diana is currently working on a book (with pictures!) about her time as flight attendant. Visit her blog site at http://love2travelwritefilm.com

Original artilce: http://love2travelwritefilm.com/2013/05/08/black-amsterdam-the-bjilmer/

 

lagos“Shine your eye!” is an oft-quoted Pidgin English phrase for anyone visiting Lagos, including Nigerians who have been away from the country for some time or are originally from other parts of the country. It’s simply caution for one to be alert when traveling through the city. Lagos is a sprawling, chaotic metropolis with a lot of edge and Lagosians are arguably the street savviest of Nigerians you will ever meet. And living in the economic capital of the most populous country in Africa, Lagosians have seen it all. Incredible wealth, evident in luxury homes and cars you will see around the city, not far from less developed, congested communities and barely there social infrastructure – check. Legendary traffic during rush hour – check. The daily hustle and bustle that goes into living in such a crowded city – check.

As far as touristy activities go, Lagos is an anomaly - ideal for the seasoned, adventurous, curious traveler. While the city’s government is making small strides in promoting it as a tourism hub in West Africa, it’s still a city that might grow on you. But then it might not. Lagos is not yet a city pining for its close-up. In fact, its appeal (or detraction) is firmly in its take it or leave it vibe. There’s no silver platter for what it has to offer just yet, you will have to do a little digging to better appreciate how your interests intertwine with the city’s dynamic cultural fabric.

The best way to explore Lagos is with a trustworthy, knowledgeable local friend or associate. If you enjoy nightlife, there are quite a variety of clubs and lounges to explore in Victoria Island and other parts of the city. Lagos is home to some of the most dynamic Afro pop music currently exploding across sub-Saharan Africa and you will be in for a pulsating time. Care to get a bite before heading out? Well, an assortment of flavorful traditional and international cuisine await you depending on how bold your taste-buds and stomach are. There are appetizing options to be had at roadside or hole-in-the-wall restaurants called “mama put” joints or “buka” to casual dining, take-out restaurants and more upscale restaurants.lagos_beach

For beach lovers, Lagos straddles the Atlantic Ocean and has its fair share of beaches spread across the city. A number of private eaches are accessible too for sometimes exorbitant fees. Art lovers can feast their eyes on cultural offerings at spots like TerraKulture, also in Victoria Island, which features arts, crafts and exhibitions. While Nike (pronounced “Nee-Keh”) Centre for Art & Culture in Lekki (Phase 1) offers an extraordinary collection of works by artists from all over Nigeria. The four-story gallery shows like a museum in its own right and is a haven for true art lovers and buyers.

Lagos is a character, taking it all in stride is part of the adventure that is this one-of-a-kind city. So, yes do “shine your eye” when you visit because Lagos promises to be one unforgettable experience!

At_The_Palms_Lekki

Ufuoma Otu (at the Palms Lekki) is an avid traveler who is passionate about intercultural exchange.  Recent travels have taken her to China, Thailand, Cambodia, Panama, Nigeria, and Ghana.

 

 

 

 

robyns_worldA few years ago I spent ten days in Uganda delivering  African American history lectures and meeting with academics at close to half a dozen educational institutions. Traveling for work often squeezes true enjoyment into the margins of a schedule dictated by others and often positions one as an outsider. However, Uganda was different. Teach and Tour Sojourners, the organization overseeing my schedule and transport, accommodated my desire to see “everything,” do as much as possible and eat, breathe and live like a local. The day after I arrived with Sira, my four year old daughter, in tow, I was hurtling in a jeep towards the source of the Nile River, a convenient detour from my first lecture. It is not an exaggeration to say that it was a full immersion experience to find myself headed on a two hour road trip to the source of the Nile River after being in the country for less than 24 hours. 

The window of the truck was my window into this new world.  And the roads, which alternated between bruised passageways--filled with random yawning holes that often forced drivers to careen into oncoming traffic or devise shoulders out of thin air--and incredibly smooth and modern stretches of highway became a metaphor for my experience. I took in everything I saw, realizing quickly that the city was a place of stark contrasts: development and underdevelopment; urban and rural; modern and traditional.  In the urban areas billboards were everywhere. They advertised everything from OMO soap powder to MTN-- the ubiquitous cell phone service provider--to the various social and political messages: Voting is important. Remain abstinent. HIV/AIDS can spread in social networks. Beenie Man and R Kelley will soon be in town giving concerts. Abortion is murder. Domestic violence is wrong. The prevalence and diversity of these signs indicated a vibrant consumer culture and a national conversation about gender, health and culture. There were also many references to Barack Obama, from modest corner stores bearing his name to the slogan “Yes we can” written on the back of informal taxis. Once you left the city, the landscape was breathtaking, lush with greenery and vegetation.  The contrast between the countless shades of green of the grass and fields, the richness of the reddish hued earth and the blue of the sky was simply stunning.

 robyn_ugandaAfter a few days of travel, this scenario became familiar.  Industriousness was everywhere. Everyone that I saw during my daily drives around town was busily engaged in work: hawkers, washerwomen, school children, bikes, taxi driver and boda boda (motorcycle cabs) operators. Stores both formal and informal seemed to be thriving.  Class diversification was marked by clothing, vehicle ownership and other markers of consumerism. Poverty and struggle was evident but there were very few people panhandling, very few street children and crime was relatively low. Doors were not immediately locked upon entry to the car, money was freely carried about, and there was little public fear or expectation of malevolence from strangers. The hospitality, openness and humility of the people was almost palatable. 

Although my longer natural hair set me apart from the women wearing either short naturals or weaves/braids, my dark complexion was the norm and allowed me to blend in a bit more. American music was incredibly popular and we soon got used to being lulled to sleep by US r&b courtesy of the informal night spot that adjoined the guesthouse, which was located in a typical suburb. We would also get used to being woken before dawn by a crowing rooster that Sira dubbed “Clockadoodle.” Sira and I learned to “make do,” to eliminate waste, that limited choices were livable, and that one person’s home can be another person’s workplace. We happily gave up the creature comforts of life in the US and enjoyed the unique things and simpler pleasures that Uganda had to offer. Free range meats, sustainably produced vegetables and pungent and accessible fruits were tops on our list.robin_uganda_street

That weekend we went to Murchinson Falls National Park, located several hours from Kampala in Northern Uganda almost at the border with Sudan/Congo. We saw many aspects of rural life en route. We spent the night inside of the park, visited a waterfall, and enjoyed a morning game drive and a pm boat ride before returning home. It was a wonderful experience. It was also very touristy. The minute we set foot in the park, I went from part of the majority to being the only black face outside of staff and workers. It was disconcerting to say the least but such is the politics of safari tourism. Although I appreciated the natural splendor of the park and the many wild animals and exotic birds we would observe on our game drive, these realities weighed on my mind during the weekend. After another few days of university visits, I ended my trip with a day dedicated to visiting local museums to learn more about cultures and ethnicities in Uganda and a visit to the nature conservancy on Lake Victoria.

I had a wonderful time in Uganda. I felt safe here, like I belonged, like there is a culture of kindness and hospitality that envelops you from the first moment you step off the plane.  The weather is warm, the food is delicious and the landscape is simply beautiful. Yes, there is poverty and want but despair is in short supply. At almost every school I met at least one Ugandan who had  been educated in the United States and had come back home to uplift their people. Many of the institutions we visited were fewer than ten years old, yet most had taken steps to partner with US institutions and were creatively managing their resources. Uganda is no utopia. The legislature is currently considering a draconian anti-homosexuality law, the president wants to rule for life and the gender tensions bubbling under the surface are both provocative and troubling. Uganda has come a long way but there is still a long way to go. However, it is still an incredibly worthwhile place to visit and especially to volunteer as an educator. I know that Sira and I will be back one day.

robyns_head_shotAbout the Writer

Robyn C. Spencer received her PhD in History from Columbia University in 2001. She was an Assistant Professor of African and African American Studies, and History at Penn State University from 2001-2007 and currently works as an Assistant Professor of US History at Lehman College in the Bronx, NY. Through writing, teaching and public presentations, she aims to educate others about the contributions of urban, working-class African Americans, especially women, to the Black freedom movement. Her areas of expertise include Black social protest after World War II, urban and working-class radicalism, and gender. She is currently completing a book on the Black Panther Party's political and organizational evolution in Oakland, California and beginning a new project on the movement against the Vietnam war in Black America. Professor Spencer's research tracing the path of social protest movements has taken her to dozens of states, Europe and six African countries. Recently, she has begun to publish materials from her extensive travel journals.

Samah_3North Africa is one of my favorite places to travel, but of course I can’t go there every time the travel bug hits me. So during my state-side travels, I always try to find a Mediterranean restaurant that evokes the sights, tastes, and smells that one finds in North Africa. Last month, I flew into Chicago for a wedding that was to take place in a small town in the neighboring state of Indiana.

The morning after the wedding, the bride and groom took off on their honeymoon, and I headed back to Chicago where I would explore as much of the city as I could before my flight back to Atlanta the following afternoon. By the time I checked into my hostel in the Lincoln Park district, it was late afternoon. I had just enough time to freshen up and figure out where I would go for the night. I wanted to go somewhere close by that had good reviews for both the food and the atmosphere. After searching through reviews, my desire for fragrant hookah, tasty pita bread, and the rich rhythms of Arabic influenced music lead me to settle on a place called Samah.

A short cab ride later, I arrived. Located on N. Clark St., Samah was a truly beautiful restaurant that suggested a more sensuous side of North African and Mediterranean music and décor; The upholstery was stunning, embellished with deep burgundy, lavish gold, and rich brown. The tunes were exotic, but tranquil- a lot different than the upbeat, almost too loud hookah lounges that I had experienced back in Atlanta. That Sunday night, it was not too crowded, and the manager offered me seating immediately.

Another thing that made the Samah experience so splendid was the layout of the restaurant. With curtains in between many of the seating areas, Samah offered privacy for those who wanted it, as well as more open seating areas for those who wanted to see and be seen.

Samah1So Samah easily gets an A+ for ambiance, but what really puts the icing on the cake, (or perhaps is the cake itself), is the quality of hookah tobacco presented there. I have smoked many-of hookahs, and I even have my own hookah at home, but nothing has ever come close to Samah’s offerings. Once in my private seating area, I discovered that the hookah menu was divided into four sections—Flavors, Blends, Starbuzz, and Tangier—according to price (from $15 and up) and quality with the last section being the strongest and most expensive. The menu even tells you that this last section, the Tangier flavors, are not recommended for beginners due to the richness of the tobacco.

From “Tiramisu” and “Arabic Coffee” to “Nelson Mandela,” and “Jamaican Rum,” the restaurant offers almost 100 different tobacco flavors, some more exotic, some more banal. This would have made the choice overwhelming if it weren’t for a knowledgeable and friendly wait staff.  My server’s name, I believe, was Alba, and her recommendation was excellent. At her suggestion, I chose “fakhfakhina.” I still have yet to discover what that word means, but the luscious flavor is no longer any secret. Alba explained that my hookah pipe even featured an ice chamber that helped to cool the smoke before inhalation, giving the taste a cooler, more delicate and heavy sweetness.

The menu at Samah features a handful of traditional Mediterranean favorites like baba ghanouj (an eggplant- based dish), dolma (stuffed grape leaves), hummus served with pita bread, and spinach pie. I found this hummus to be a little different, as it had a spicy kick due to a garnish of chopped jalapeños.

Samah2With a great atmosphere, top quality hookah, and good food, Samah is a great place to be if you’re in Chicago and are looking for a nice night on the town. Unlike many restaurants in Chi-Town, Samah is not a BYOB place. In fact, it’s a “dry” establishment, meaning that they do not serve alcohol, so get your liquor in before or go without, but don’t let that spoil a wonderful time out at Samah! As the manager told me when I first arrived, and as I later discovered, the hookah is well worth the visit!

'Krissie Critiques' presents the 2010 Ford Mustang V6! Don't forget to check out my pro travel tips at the end!

CIMG0002sizedThe Ford Mustang was the first car I can remember ever wanting; I must have been about 5 or 6 years old when I first noticed it. I remember sitting in a service station and peaking out of the window across the street at a gas station. A purple, convertible fox-body mustang was next to the pump as some teenager filled its tank perhaps getting ready for an evening out with friends. It was the first time that the concept of a “dream car” had occurred to me. Now age 24, I'm wondering why I waited so long to test drive this thing! 

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My Ugandan Adventure at the Source of the Nile in

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  Re-Discover Uganda! (Part 2)                                                          

Monday, 30 March 2015 Comments

Discover Cape Verde!

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Literally translated, Boa Vista means “beautiful view” and the Cape Verde island lives up to its name, surprising visitors with stunning views. But there is so much more to Boa

Monday, 27 May 2013 Comments

Enjoying the Night Life in Dakar, Senegal

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If you are ever in Senegal, you must go to Dakar for nightlife entertainment. Senegal's capital, Dakar is located in the most western point of the African continent. You will find

Wednesday, 26 September 2012 Comments

2

Cheap Flights to Africa: Ten Tips on Travel to the

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More and more African Americans and people in the Western hemisphere are fulfilling their dreams of visiting Africa. Finding a cheap flight to Africa from the US is not so

Wednesday, 26 September 2012 Comments

A Giraffe Sighting: An Unforgettable Moment in East

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                                                                              On that morning when I stepped to view the 8000 foot high Miriakamba compound on Tanzania's Mt. Meru, where I had eaten and slept better than I had expected the

Tuesday, 11 October 2011 Comments

Going Back to My African Roots!

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A traveller from Great Britain experiences the 10th International Gambian Roots FestivalSince my mid twenties, I’ve become a very keen traveller to Afrika.  I really got into it in 1997

Friday, 8 April 2011 Comments

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10 Historically Black Beaches to Visit This

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If you did not get to go in summer 2016, plan to visit one of these beaches now. Elle gave us this round up on 10 historic black beaches to

Friday, 23 June 2017 Comments

Doin’ Accra: Six Ways To Catch Some Culture In Ghana’s

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In part one of a six-part series on Ghana for AFK Travel, Starrene Rhett-Rocque, a first-time visitor to the country, blazes a trail through the capital city of Accra in

Wednesday, 18 March 2015 Comments

Visit Brazil for Boa Morte Festival in August

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My name is J. Carlos Desales. I am a native of Rio de Janeiro and a citizen of United States. Currently, I spend the most part of the year in

Saturday, 14 March 2015 Comments