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In October 2005, I visited Lima, Perú for the first time, my goal being to immerse myself in the Spanish language as I had done in Cuba and Mexico several years prior. In Lima, I met only a handful of blacks, but during my weekend trips to the Southern Perúvian district of El Carmen, I was introduced to the black life of Perú, along with that of indigenous ancestries, such as the Inca and Amayra people. I stayed with a prominent musical family known as the Ballumbrosio family where the father, the late, great Amador Ballumbrosio, played a major role in reviving and promoting Afro-Perúvian music and dance which, today, are national treasures. I expected to spend money on entertainment, but as it turned out, live Afro-Perúvian & Afro-Cuban music as well as salsa and American hip-hop were right there in the community—and free of charge. And unlike Lima, the Afro-Perúvian capital of El Carmen is a peaceful town where there is hardly any crime. If there is any drug use, it is kept on the down-low. Children play freely in the plaza at night without all the parental concerns of danger that plague American society.

And so it was during my second trip to Perú this past November and December that I spent most of my time in El Carmen instead of Lima. I arrived in time for the procession commemorating St. Martin de Porres, an Afro-Perúvian priest noted for his tireless work on behalf of the poor who was later canonized by the Catholic Church and became a saint. A district in Lima is named in his honor.

In Perú, the racial divide seems much more blatant than in the USA with only a few Peruvians speaking up or seeming to notice. With employment want-ads asking for “good appearance,” a code-word for white, black Perúvians are limited to certain types of jobs such as security officers, nannies, entertainers, or professional athletes. At Lima’s Jorge Chavez Airport, I saw only four black employees and no Asians or people of indigenous ancestry. There was no racial or cultural diversity that reflected the existent diversity of Perú.  Yet many Perúvian immigrants to the United States will insist that there is no racism in their home country.

From Perú, I spent a week in Quito, Ecuador known as phentermine without prescription or “the middle of the world” for its position right along the equator. But more importantly than visiting the equator, I wanted to explore Ecuador’s black experience. There, I hung out with Gloria, a black Ecuadorian woman who I met through a Facebook friend. Gloria was the perfect example about whom I had read and heard: Afro-Latinos wanting to assimilate and “improve the race” by avoiding black mates and diluting their African heritage through interracial marriage. Many Afro-Latinos feel this is the best way to combat racism. Gloria, who herself, was married to a white man, has a son and daughter who are both married to Europeans.  If you look at their children, you would never know that they have black parents or grandparents.

From Quito, I had to make a choice between two black communities; I could visit Esmeraldas, Ecuador on the west coast, 70% black and which consists mostly of descendants of escaped slaves who built fortresses for protection. I chose not to go there because I didn’t want to deal with the heat, the mosquitoes, or the rumored crime. Instead, I chose to visit a quiet black community up in the Andes called Valle de Chota (Chota Valley) where descendants of emancipated slaves live. I was also attracted to Valle de Chota because it produced so many of Ecuador’s soccer stars who shined in the 2006 World Cup Games.

A funny thing happened while riding the bus to Chota; as I went towards the back to use the restroom, I struck up a conversation with one of the many black passengers. They all noticed my non-Ecuadorian accent and began to pay close attention. When I burst out some English to entertain them, they all laughed in astonishment as if they never heard a black person speak English before.

My reception by the people of Chota was mixed. The fact that I was a total stranger entering the area cold and speaking with a funny accent made some people very wary. One lady went to get the police, the station being right next door to her shop. I wished I could have taken her picture the way she wagging her finger and shaking her head as if to say, “don’t you be comin’ up in here!” Instead, I ended up taking pictures of the police officers at the station as I explained why I was in their town. The officers thoroughly understood. I gave them each a Barack Obama post card and an Oakland, California (my home city) postcard, very much appreciated little souvenirs I give to everyone with whom I establish rapport during my travels. 

Other people in the town felt better about my presence once we began to chat.  When I left Chota later in the afternoon, I felt so exhilarated to have to met and chatted with friendly men, women, and children as they gave me information about their community.  I had the impression that blacks in Chota were more in touch with their heritage than those in Quito. I remember asking blacks in Quito about the location of the Afro-Ecuadorian Museum, and they would immediately turn to a non-black Ecuadorian and ask about its location as though they themselves were oblivious to their own heritage.

Although Ecuador has a much larger black population than Perú, racism is alive and well. You will not find blacks, indigenous, or Asians working in banks or major office buildings. It’s hard for a black person to catch a taxi cab during certain hours. On Friday nights when it’s busy, it is next to impossible. In fact, one day I had to wave five-dollar bills instead of my hand to get a taxi.  I thought it was so interesting how relaxed the driver became when he learned that I was a harmless African-American tourist and not a feared African-Ecuadorian.

I had a similar incident happen in Perú when I approached a parked police car occupied by two officers. It was obvious to them that I had a question, yet they kept their car window up and shut. When I motioned for them to roll the window down, one officer cracked the window open about an inch. When he heard my non-Perúvian Spanish, the window came all the way down as both officers gave me the directions I needed in a jovial manner.

On my way back from Ecuador to Perú, I decided to save some money by taking a bus to the border town of Huayquillas, Ecuador, and then crossing the border by cab into Tumbes, Perú, after which, I would catch a flight to Lima. Once I crossed the border my taxi was stopped three times by the Peruvian National Police. These must have been DWB or “Driving While Black” police stops; only in this case, I was the passenger.  My cab driver explained to me that Perú was having problems with drug traffickers from Ghana, Guinea, and other West African countries, and suspected that I may be one of them. The first cop was cool. He even laughed at one of my jokes. It took him only a minute to see that my passport and tourist card were in order. Then I was on my way.

The second cop, who stopped me twenty minutes later, was more determined to find something wrong. He called for backup to scrutinize my paperwork. They became a little concerned when I told them that I work for Barack Obama (laughter—I was wearing an Obama t-shirt). They let me go. The third cop, just ten minutes later, was more determined than the other two. This is when I got very irritated, but not enough to go to jail. I slid my sun-glasses half-way down my nose, eyeballed him, and told him all of my Afro-centric reasons for being in Perú. I told him that I wanted to know why there is so much racial discrimination in his country and asked how many black police offers he knew. When the officer started to walk away from my cab, I thanked him for helping me practice my Spanish. My cab driver could not contain his laughter, and neither could I.

A middle-class black tourist traveling through Latin America would probably be treated like anybody else if they, unlike me, go the route of major hotels, airlines, and tourist attractions. In one instance, I veered into the Lima Hilton Hotel to eat breakfast because I could not find a restaurant open at 7:00 in the morning. With my master card in hand, I could not help but notice how much respect I was getting.

Town_of_Juncal_EcuadorBut generally, I choose to live like a local, staying with families whenever possible, riding buses, or renting a hotel in the barrio (the ‘hood). Most of my time was spent among the so-called lower class. As a traveler, I endured a standard of living that would annoy the average tourist. As a result, I had more spending money to enjoy myself and at the same time, to help others who were much less fortunate than the average American family living below the poverty line. I spent money on families to dine out with me. It was a total joy, a heartfelt pleasure, and worth every penny to see how they were enjoying this unusual experience. I achieved my goal of making lifetime friends, learning the culture, but most importantly, improving my Spanish.

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Image - Traveling Among Black Latinos in Black Latin

As one who has traveled to more than 100 cities in 13 countries, I take pride in avoiding tourism and getting as close to the locals as possible. In my

Sunday, 31 July 2011

Image - The Opening of the Gambia’s 10th International Roots

With the theme "Celebrating African Unity", the 10th edition of the Gambia Roots Festival attracted scores of delegates from the Diaspora, who joined their African counterparts for the gr

Friday, 18 March 2011

Image - Panama Adventure: Climb Baru Volcano, See Atlantic & Pacific at the Same

On the day before Easter, several friends, a guide from Habla Ya, and I set out to climb Volcan Baru, in Boquete, Panama. The climb is approximately 14.5 kilometers, with

Sunday, 24 October 2010

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Image - A Giraffe Sighting: An Unforgettable Moment in East

                                                                              On the morning of 30th of January, 2007, I stepped out of the 8000 foot high Miriakamba compound on Tanzania's Mt. Meru, where I had eaten and slept better

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Image - Going Back to My African Roots!

A traveller from Great Britain experiences the 10th International Gambian Roots FestivalSince my mid twenties, I’ve become a very keen traveller to Afrika.  I really got into it in 1997

Friday, 8 April 2011

Image - From Nigeria to Atlanta: One CNN Fellow's

My visit to the US for the first time was quite an experience. My arrival in Atlanta gave me the feel of Nigeria because of the weather, but something unique

Tuesday, 30 November 2010

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Image - Reflections of a Sobo Bade Retreat in Senegal

From the moment we disembarked the bus and weaved beyond the huts and mango trees to enter the sanctuary that is Sobo Bade, I thought of it as the perfect

Saturday, 17 September 2011

Image - Women Travel for Peace: A Community Based Trip to

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Wednesday, 12 January 2011

Image - Beaches and the World's Coldest Beer in Dominican

The Dominican Republic — one part baseball mecca and one part beach colony, with a ton of Caribbean history and culture thrown in for added flavor. The island of Hispaniola sits

Friday, 1 October 2010

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